Since moving to Banyuwangi in 2017, I’ve had the pleasure of discovering a wide variety of food spots, ranging from local culinary treasures to Western and Asian-style eateries. Back then, the food scene was still developing, with only a handful of coffee shops and limited modern dining options.
Unlike in bigger cities, you wouldn’t find global fast-food giants like McDonald’s—though there was a KFC! The focus was mostly on Indonesian cuisine, with fewer options for Western food, which added to the region’s charm, as it remained rooted in its local flavors.
However, in recent years, Banyuwangi's culinary scene has grown rapidly. People are now more open to embracing different food cultures, likely influenced by locals who have studied or worked outside of Banyuwangi and returned with broader tastes. Additionally, professionals from larger cities have moved to Banyuwangi for work, further shaping the food landscape.
Another major factor in this growth is Banyuwangi's booming tourism industry. With the support of both the Indonesian government and the local government, Banyuwangi has been positioned as one of the next major destinations after Bali. This has led to a significant influx of both local and international tourists, driving demand for more diverse dining options and giving a major boost to the culinary industry.
This shift has paved the way for major food chains like McDonald's, Pizza Hut, Richeese Factory, and Tomorrow Coffee, which all entered the Banyuwangi market in 2024. It’s clear these brands did their research before making the leap, as the city has become more receptive to diverse food offerings, thanks to the combined influence of tourism and the evolving tastes of its residents.
Over the years, I’ve come to appreciate not only the rich, authentic flavors of Banyuwangi but also the international influences that shape the city’s food scene. One of the quirks of Banyuwangi’s evolving food scene is the local myth that many new restaurants tend to close after just three months because customers visit only out of ‘FOMO’ (Fear of Missing Out) rather than genuine interest. While this "FOMO" dynamic still exists to some extent, the myth of restaurants closing after three months has largely faded. The recent success of global chains and the growth of established local eateries suggest that Banyuwangi’s culinary scene is now more stable and welcoming to long-term ventures.
Having been a resident for a long time, I’ve seen the culinary landscape change and evolve, and being part of that journey is something I truly cherish. These recommendations, while reflecting my personal taste, offer something for everyone. Sharing my favorite food experiences from Banyuwangi feels natural because this is more than just a place I live—it’s a place where I’ve built lasting memories. I hope that by sharing these experiences, others can feel the same excitement and connection to the food as I do, whether you're a local or just visiting.
1. Fujiyama Sushi
Fujiyama Sushi - Picture by Rahmat Ramadhan
Why sushi, you might ask? Well, sushi is one of my favorite foods, and it requires special care and precision to get it right. You can easily tell when sushi isn’t fresh or properly prepared. Not everyone might appreciate sushi, but the fact that Fujiyama Sushi has invested in Banyuwangi with the right equipment and high-quality ingredients for several years now shows there is definitely a market for it here.
Now, I know some people might think that I still prefer well-known sushi chains like Sushi Tei or other big-city sushi restaurants, and to be honest, Fujiyama Sushi can’t quite be compared to the highest-tier sushi places you’d find in bigger cities. It’s not exactly an apple-to-apple comparison.
But for me, Fujiyama Sushi is only a level behind those, and it’s already good enough to satisfy my sushi cravings. They consistently deliver fresh, flavorful sushi, and the taste never disappoints. The best part is, I no longer need to make the long, 4-hour trip just to enjoy a great sushi meal—Banyuwangi has its own go-to sushi spot!
Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/jKGciFBGhD3f8puG8
You can find my complete review about Fujiyama Sushi here.
2. Warung Umbul Bu Lest
Warung Umbul Bu Lest - Picture by Rahmat Ramadhan
Warung Umbul Bu Lest is as traditional as it gets. This place serves freshly cooked Indonesian food with a variety of options like Nasi Pecel, Ayam Kesrut, and Soto Ayam. It's not just a typical restaurant—it's where local people and nearby villagers come to eat before or after a long day working on the farms. The atmosphere here is simple, but that’s exactly what gives it its charm.
One dish I highly recommend trying is their sambel kecombrang. Made from the kecombrang plant, this sambal is unique and flavorful, and what makes it even more special is that they harvest the kecombrang right from behind their house before serving it. The freshness and care that goes into this dish really stand out.
The vibe here is like stepping into an old, peaceful scene. There’s a big fish pool where the water flows directly from a natural source, a few cozy gazebos surrounded by rice fields, and even durian trees nearby. It’s the kind of place that feels like a retreat into nature, while still delivering delicious home-cooked meals. This place holds a lot of memories for me.
When I first came to Banyuwangi, I ate here and was immediately taken by the taste—it felt like my mom was cooking for me. The flavors are comforting, familiar, and rooted in tradition. Warung Umbul Bu Lest is the kind of place that keeps drawing me back, not just for the food but for the sense of home it brings with every bite.
Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Dy6HD6ZLo2JhCSrb7
3. Warung Emboh Bakaran
Warung Emboh Bakaran - Picture by Rahmat Ramadhan
Warung Emboh Bakaran holds a special place in my heart, especially as it's one of my go-to spots with my wife after her dentist appointments. Since she can only eat soft food afterward, we always order their zuppa soup and mac and cheese, which are must-try dishes here. As for me, I tend to go for their perfectly al dente aglio e olio pasta, or sometimes I indulge in their nasi lalapan udang, complete with their signature sambals that pack just the right amount of heat.
But before diving into the main dishes, we have a little tradition: we always start with their usus bakar (grilled chicken intestines) and telur bakar (grilled eggs). These appetizers are simple yet full of flavor, and they make for the perfect opening while we wait for the heavier meals to arrive.
People often say that all the food at Warung Emboh Bakaran is great—and I completely agree. Every dish is carefully prepared and made with love. I know this because the owners are deeply involved in the business, treating it like their own "baby." They take pride in every detail, ensuring that everything is done right. For some of the Western dishes, only the owner's wife handles the preparation, as she doesn't entrust these special items to anyone else in the kitchen. This personal care truly reflects in the quality and consistency of the food.
The combination of grilled delights and comforting dishes like pasta or traditional nasi makes Warung Emboh Bakaran a versatile spot. Whether you're craving Western comfort food or Indonesian classics, this place has something for everyone.
Maps: https://g.co/kgs/Vj2inzU
Instagram: @warungemboh
4. Chungking Ekspres - Asian Restaurant
Chungking Ekspres is a great spot for enjoying a mix of Asian comfort food, offering everything from bubur (rice porridge), dimsum, and claypot dishes to beer and other Asian-inspired meals. I happen to know the chef, and he’s quite the perfectionist—his attention to detail really shows in the food. My personal favorites here are the claypot, fried chicken, and of course, the beer.
It’s also one of the few places in Banyuwangi where I feel comfortable enjoying a beer and hanging out with my team. The vibe at Chungking Ekspres gives you a classic Chinese-Asian feel, with red walls and vintage decor that adds to the ambiance of a traditional Chinese restaurant. The laid-back atmosphere, combined with the great food and drinks, makes it the perfect spot to unwind after a long day.
People often come here to watch football or other matches, making it a popular hangout spot, especially since it's one of the few places in Banyuwangi that stays open until midnight. In a city where late-night options are limited, Chunking Ekspres is a go-to spot for catching a game or relaxing after a busy day.
I’ve spent many evenings here with my friends and team, especially after long, tiring weekends of work. It’s become a place where we can all relax and recharge, making it a key spot in our routine.
Instagram: @ChungkingEkspres
Maps: https://g.co/kgs/o7trzRA
5. Royal Jade Restaurant
Royal Jade Restaurant is my go-to spot for family dinners, especially when we’re gathering as a big group. Located on the 2nd floor of the Aston Hotel, it’s part of the hotel itself, which means the food is prepared by professional chefs from the Aston kitchen. It’s a Chinese-style halal restaurant, making it a great option for Muslim diners while still offering authentic flavors.
The ambiance is elegant and spacious, with rolling tables and large seating areas perfect for big gatherings. They even offer private rooms if you’re looking for a more exclusive dining experience. My favorite dishes here are the Nasi Goreng Royal Jade, Udang Telur Asin (salted egg prawns), Beef Szechuan, and their delicious Asparagus Soup.
If you’re in the mood for a drink, they have a selection of wines, but do note that during Ramadhan, alcohol is removed from the menu. They also offer a variety of mocktails, which you can order from the lounge on the first floor, and they’ll bring it up to the restaurant for you. And if you’re craving something sweet, you can explore the cakes and desserts available at the Aston’s bakery on the ground floor.
Overall, Royal Jade is a great place to gather with family or friends for a refined dining experience, whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or just enjoying a nice evening out.
Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/LZsRmgwjv9He6TzC8
6. 12Bars Coffee
I’ve been enjoying specialty coffee in Indonesia since 2016, and when I first came to Banyuwangi, I struggled to find a coffee shop that matched my taste. But if you ask me today about my favorite coffee spot, my answer is always 12Bars Coffee.
12Bars Coffee stands out as the only coffee shop in Banyuwangi (as of 2024) with proper equipment from the very beginning. They use top-tier machines like La Marzocco and EK43—before even adding a Comandante grinder—which tells you they’re serious about serving high-quality coffee. It’s not just about the equipment, though; they source specialty beans from some of the world’s top roasteries and even participate in coffee auctions to get exclusive beans.
But 12Bars isn’t just about great coffee. They also serve the best burger in town. They make their own buns and source their meat from Bali, ensuring the highest quality in every bite. Their attention to detail really shines through in both their food and coffee offerings. Another favorite of mine is their classic chicken noodle—it’s so good that I often find myself coming back for it. My usual routine is to enjoy the noodles first and then, after a few hours of working on my laptop, I treat myself to one of their burgers.
12Bars Coffee has become more than just a coffee stop for me; it’s a place where I can enjoy great coffee, delicious food, and spend time working or unwinding.
Instagram: 12bars.coffee
Maps: https://g.co/kgs/bG6ES9f
7. Kedai S.O ( Sogok Ontong Kopi)
Sogok Ontong is one of my favorite spots for a classic Indonesian-style coffee experience. The coffee here has a traditional, nostalgic taste, and the interior, with its 70's–80's wooden design, feels like stepping back in time. Some people even say it gives off a bit of a Ghibli vibe because of the warm, rustic wooden décor. If you’re looking for a cozy spot to spend time late into the night, Sogok Ontong is perfect. I often come here with my team after a long day at work, usually around 9 p.m., and we hang out until 1 a.m. before heading home.
What makes Sogok Ontong special is the classic feel of their coffee. Every time I visit, I’m reminded of my first experience with V60 coffee in Jogjakarta back in 2015 at Kopi Ketjil. Like then, Sogok Ontong uses traditional methods—boiling water over a stove with an open flame instead of an electric kettle—which I believe adds a unique flavor to the coffee.
They offer a wide selection of beans, all displayed in transparent jars at the bar, so you can take your time choosing which one to try. It’s a simple but unique way to pick your coffee and adds to the charm of the place.
If you're in the mood for something refreshing, I recommend trying their Es Kopyor—a sweet vanilla and coconut drink that's perfect for relaxing. They also have a variety of snacks, and I highly recommend their empek-empek, a traditional Palembang snack that pairs well with their drinks.
Sogok Ontong is great both at night and in the early morning, though it can get a bit warm in the afternoon since they don’t have air conditioning. Still, the cozy atmosphere, classic coffee, and relaxing vibe make it a must-visit spot for anyone looking to unwind.
Maps: https://g.co/kgs/dU9Ya8u
Instagram: sogokontongkopi.bwi
8. Ratu Osing
Ratu Osing is one of my go-to spots when I’m craving hearty Indonesian food, and I often stop by to pick up some of their delicious baked goods as well. The place serves a variety of meals, coffee, and pastries—including croissants that are surprisingly good. But for me, what really stands out is their Gurame Rica-Rica and Salted Egg Prawns—two dishes that never disappoint.
The restaurant itself is quite large, with plenty of seating, and even private rooms if you’re looking for a more intimate dining experience. It’s also a popular spot for tourists, as they sell souvenirs and local snacks. The souvenir section is stocked with products from local suppliers, and you can even find batik here, making it a convenient stop for travelers who want to take home a piece of Banyuwangi’s culture.
Whether you’re there for the food or just a coffee and pastry break, Ratu Osing offers a well-rounded experience with great food and a variety of souvenirs for those passing through.
Maps: https://g.co/kgs/cWLvkmt
9. Kopi Pinarak Banyuwangi
Pinarak Cafe and Eatery is one of my favorite spots when I’m in the mood for a variety of modern food options. The place is incredibly cozy, with a stylish and modern café vibe that makes it great for both working or catching up with friends. What I appreciate most is how involved the owner is in the development process—this attention to detail shows in the quality of the food. I’ve never been disappointed here; the taste is always consistent, and their menu offers a range of unique but comforting dishes.
The menu spans both Indonesian and Western cuisine, so there’s something for everyone. One of my personal favorites is their bingsoo, a Korean-style shaved ice dessert that’s topped with various flavors and filled with mochi. I especially love the matcha flavor—it’s a perfect balance of bitter, sweet, and umami, making it the ideal treat after a heavy meal.
If you’re looking for something lighter, they also have a refreshing Caesar salad. Pinarak is the kind of place where you can enjoy a good meal, whether it’s Indonesian or Western-style, and then relax with a dessert like bingsoo. It’s a great spot for those seeking good food, a comfortable atmosphere, and a place to unwind or be productive.
Instagram: kopipinarakbanyuwangi
Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/EJCU76fYA2oohuje8
10. Krakatau Coffee & Bakery
Krakatau Coffee & Bakery is owned by a close friend of mine, and it has become one of my favorite places to spend time—whether it's for breakfast or even a fine dining experience.
What makes this place special is the incredible ambiance. It’s a unique blend of traditional Osing culture (a local ethnic group in Banyuwangi) and Japanese-style interior and exterior design, creating a distinctive vibe that feels both traditional and modern at the same time.
They offer a range of items, from coffee and cakes to matcha, which is a nice treat. It’s also a great spot for celebrating special occasions. The last time I was here, I reserved the place for a fine dining experience, with an array of dishes and drinks crafted by the owner. The food was really impressive—delicious and memorable.
If you visit on a Sunday morning, there's a traditional market nearby that’s only open on Sundays, where you can explore and enjoy a variety of traditional street food. The market is located in the heart of an Osing village, adding to the authentic, cultural experience.
Instagram: krakatau_co
Maps: https://g.co/kgs/i88njMs
11. Nanine Coffee
Nanine might be a bit of a drive—about 35 to 40 minutes from the center of Banyuwangi—but trust me, it's worth every minute. So far, this is the best place for me to enjoy cake. The cakes here are perfectly balanced, not too sweet, and always delicious. My wife and I typically aren’t fans of cheesecake, but the cheesecake at Nanine is an exception. You can really taste the quality of the ingredients, and it’s clear the owner puts great care into every dish and drink.
My personal favorites are the Red Velvet, Matcha Burn Cheesecake, and honestly, every cake they offer.
But it’s not just about the cakes. They also serve excellent pasta and, without a doubt, amazing coffee. The owner frequently offers Geisha coffee options as well as local beans sourced from top-tier roasteries. Even though they still use manual brewing methods, the coffee here is consistently outstanding.
While I don’t visit often due to the distance—it can take about an hour from my base—Nanine remains highly recommended. It’s the kind of place I always look forward to returning to whenever I’m in southeast Banyuwangi.
Instagram: nanine_coffee
Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/zeA2WktPRhWFn6qj9
12. Baron Ndut's Steaks & Burgers
Baron Ndut's Steaks & Burgers is where I go when I’m in the mood for a hearty, satisfying meal—whether it’s a good steak or some proper smoked BBQ. They specialize in steaks and burgers, and they were actually the first place in Banyuwangi to serve brisket, which is a huge draw for BBQ lovers. Their menu offers a great selection of meats, each cooked to perfection with just the right amount of smokiness.
What really sets them apart, in my opinion, are the small details that complete the meal. Every steak comes with well-prepared sides, like perfectly cooked veggies and delicious potato smash, which complements the meat wonderfully. My personal favorite is the Meltique Steak paired with their unique honey hot sauce. The combination of the tender, flavorful steak and the sweet-spicy sauce is something I never get tired of. Honestly, any steak on their menu paired with that sauce is a great choice.
They also take care to provide proper cutlery, which makes the steak-eating experience even better—something you don’t always find at other places. Baron Ndut’s has become my go-to spot for a consistently great steak experience, and it’s a place I trust whenever I want to enjoy high-quality grilled meats.
If you’re a fan of BBQ or just looking for a solid place to get a well-cooked steak in Banyuwangi, Baron Ndut’s Steaks & Burgers is definitely worth a visit. You won’t be disappointed by the food, and it’s a great spot for anyone who appreciates a good meal done right.
Maps: https://g.co/kgs/u8Bjzmy
Instagram: baron_nduts
13. Kuncikuppi - Coffee and Bakehouse
Last but certainly not least, I’m proud to mention Kuncikuppi, the cafe and bakehouse that my wife and I owned together. My wife takes care of the bakehouse, while I focus on the coffee.
To give you the backstory, I’m not a coffee expert by any means, but my journey into specialty coffee began in 2015 when I was exploring coffee in Jogjakarta. That experience shaped my taste buds and helped me develop an appreciation for great coffee. As for my wife, her passion has always been baking, and together, we’ve traveled and explored different foods from all over. Every place we visited offered its own uniqueness, and we’ve tried to bring that spirit to our own space. At Kuncikuppi, we focus on homemade, European-style baked goods paired with specialty coffee sourced from roasteries we love. We’ve created a homey atmosphere where people can relax and enjoy their time with family and loved ones.
One of our standout offerings that helped build our reputation is the Focaccia with Pepperoni and Mozzarella Cheese, which brought a lot of word-of-mouth attention to our place. From there, we continued with crowd favorites like the Sea Salt Chocolate Muffin and the Classic Scone. Our latest creation, the Cranberry Cheese bread, has also been a hit. It’s inspired by Francisartisanbakery and Roti Macan, but we’ve added our own twist to make it uniquely ours.
And the last addition to our menu is our Sourdough Bread. We’ve been trying to reintroduce sourdough to Banyuwangi, using a blonde-style sourdough that’s softer and easier to chew, while still retaining its delicious moisture. It's been a rewarding experience, helping people rediscover this classic bread.
Instagram: kuncikuppi
Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/EKSUYL4QLHJ3kfoy8
Summarize
So that’s my personal journey through Banyuwangi’s vibrant and ever-evolving food scene. When we decided to move our resident IDs from Sulawesi to Banyuwangi, I wasn’t sure what to expect, but looking back, I feel incredibly fortunate to have made that decision. I’ve never regretted it—Banyuwangi has proven to be not only a beautiful and welcoming place but also the best environment for slow living. It’s the kind of city where life feels balanced, allowing us to grow, thrive, and enjoy the richness of each day at our own pace.
What started as a simple search for familiar flavors turned into a deeper exploration of Banyuwangi’s diverse food scene, offering everything from traditional Indonesian dishes to more modern and international options. Every spot I’ve shared carries special memories—whether it’s a cozy coffee shop or a local eatery that reflects the essence of the city’s evolving culinary culture.
As Banyuwangi continues to develop as a destination for locals and tourists alike, I hope this guide offers a taste of the hidden gems I’ve come to love since moving here in 2017. Whether you’re a resident or just passing through, I encourage you to slow down, savor these spots, and find your own favorites—just as I have.